Baked Beans for Cold Days

I have a cold. My head aches, my eyes are streaming and my nose is dripping. Drip, sniff, drip, sniff, sneeze.

L also has a bug, only she has managed to sing her way through her choir practice and leap about in her Grade 3 ballet exam this weekend. Oh – and keep me awake most of the night too. But we won’t talk about that.

One of my favourite cookbooks for cold days like these is Ainsley Harriott’s Feel-Good Cookbook. And one of the ultimate feel-good, comfort foods has to be baked beans on toast.

Well, how lucky can I be? There’s a recipe for Best Boston Baked Beans on page 28 of Ainsley’s book. Only I can’t wait 8 hours for the beans to soak. And I don’t have any belly pork. And I want my comfort fix tonight, before my shivering limbs collapse me into a little heap on the kitchen floor and I can’t scrape together the energy to open a can let alone stir a large, simmering pot with a wooden spoon.

So you’ll see, if you have Ainsley’s cookbook, that I took a few shortcuts. And because I didn’t soak any beans, I didn’t have any soaking liquid, so I had to make a few alterations there, too.

Apologies in advance if anyone follows this recipe and thinks they have ended up with a huge stonking amount of baked beans. If you aren’t seeking as much comfort as I was when I doubled Ainsley’s recipe, feel free to halve the amounts below. But don’t blame me if you find yourself wishing you’d made more. I’m convinced the feel-good factor of this dish increases exponentially the more of it there is.

Baked Beans (adapted from a recipe by Ainsley Harriott)

4 tbsp olive oil
2 onions, diced
6 garlic cloves, crushed
4 tsp English mustard powder
4 tbsp light muscovado sugar
4 tbsp molasses sugar
1 tsp smoked paprika
2 tbsp tomato puree
800g (2 tins) chopped tomatoes
8 slices of unsmoked streaky bacon
470g (2 tins) tinned borlotti beans, drained
1 pint chicken stock
1/2 pint water
2 bay leaves
2 tsp dried thyme
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 160 degrees C/ 310 degrees F.

Heat the oil in a large casserole pan. Add the onion and cook gently until it softens and begins to caramelise.

Stir in the garlic, mustard powder, sugars, paprika and tomato puree. Cook gently for a minute, stirring to prevent the mixture sticking to the bottom of the pan.

Add the chopped tomatoes and stir.

Cut the bacon into small pieces and add to the pot.

Add the beans, stock, water, bay leaves and thyme. Stir thoroughly and bring to the boil. Cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid and cook in the oven for 3 1/2 to 4 hours until the beans are soft and the sauce has thickened (stir occasionally during this cooking time to make sure that the sauce doesn’t dry out).

Season and eat on thick slices of hot buttered toast.

Witches Broth (or Pea and Mint Soup)

I first met this soup at a Mother’s day lunch and never imagined that I’d be calling it Witches’ Broth and serving it up myself a few years later at a Hallowe’en party. I should assure you that this renaming says more about the thick green colour of the soup than it does about my views on motherhood …

It is hardly a well-kept secret that Hallowe’en ranks high on my list of all-time favourite festivities. It comes at a magical time of year when the days are shortening, the air is cooling and the trees are resplendent in their cloaks of fiery colours. The children’s excitement is on a par with that of Christmas in our house as they delve deep down into their dressing-up box to pull out black gowns, orange and green-striped stockings, pointed hats and vampire fangs. We decorate the house with silvery cobwebs, read stories of errant witches and shiver at the bone-rattling skeletons in Berlioz’ dream of a Witches’ Sabbath.

I think that what makes this festival particularly special for me is that there are no pre-conceived ideas about what form the traditions should take and no expectations of receiving presents among our children. They enjoy themselves enormously through the simple pleasure that comes from sparking their imaginations and partying with friends.

Unlike in the depressing scene depicted by William Langley, we have amiable neighbours who are happy to collude in a little organised trick-or-treating, while our costumes and party trimmings are largely homemade and provide an opportunity for creative fun.

Far from being an imported custom, the roots of Hallowe’en extend further back in Britain than those of the seemingly more traditionally-celebrated Guy Fawkes night. In fact, the origins of Hallowe’en practices in America can themselves be traced to the arrival of Scottish and Irish immigrants during the nineteenth century.

So pull up your cauldrons, grab your wooden spoons and join us for a warming bowl of witches’ broth 🙂 .

Witches Broth: Pea and Mint Soup (adapted from a recipe by Charlotte Kilvington)

2 oz unsalted butter
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
600 mls chicken stock
2 lb frozen peas
1 head of firm lettuce, eg. Iceberg
a handful of fresh mint, chopped
300 mls milk

Melt the butter in a large saucepan. Add the onion and fry gently to soften.

Add the stock and frozen peas. Bring to the boil and simmer until the peas are tender.

Add the lettuce and mint. Continue cooking until the lettuce has wilted.

Stir in the milk.

Blend in a food processor and season to taste.

Serve with a swirl of single cream on top – pull through from the centre outwards with a toothpick to create a spider’s web.

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