La Vie Avec Rose: Part I

Every story needs a beginning, so this tale opens with a small boy looking out of a ferry window, searching expectantly for something other than the blue waves, little realizing the grand adventure that lies ahead.

ferry window

He is my little prince and his elder sisters are my princesses, riding their royal steeds through the streets of Paris.

merry go round

We dined like Kings and Queens on pasta, pesto, vegetables and sausages, cooked majestically on a two-plate hob and served with panache at our apartment table. After feasting, the little prince and princesses lay down their sleepy heads and fell immediately into a deep, restful slumber.

sleepy heads

The lazy sun rose tardily the following morning and we ascended to the very top of the Tour Montparnasse to survey our realm.

top of tower

Our steps to Parnassus at last brought us face-to-face with the objects of our quest: une belle rose et un chocolatier charmant.

rose and zach

With excited tumblings of princess cartwheels …

cartwheel

… and crazy Parisian driving whirling around triumphal monuments, …

arc de triomphe

… we escaped with our treasure to the Golden Arches.

mc donalds

Yes, it’s true. For my first dining experience with Rose Levy Beranbaum, we shared a cheeseburger at McDonald’s!

eating at mcdonalds

But our time together was only just beginning. There were many more meals, stories and surprises to come …

Strawberries and Rhubarb

It’s the beginning of the school Easter holidays and Spring is well underway here in Devon. We have watched the furry-covered magnolia buds bursting into full blossom in the gardens at the University where O works, and L and M have collected the fallen ‘fairy blankets’ from the ground beneath the trees. We have blue skies at last, too!

magnolias

Back at home, our garden is picking itself up after being cruelly assaulted by winter’s frosts and builders’ footsteps. Whilst I generally throw in a few suggestions of things I’d like for my kitchen pots, the main planting and sprouting of any fruit and vegetables in our garden is O’s province. However, O is in Cambridge taking exams this week, so I’ve been left in charge of the nursery. And it’s a very different kind of nursery from the one that has been my own domain for the past seven years. Instead of changing nappies and spreading cream on sore baby bottoms, I’ve found myself piling soil around newly sprouting potato plants and making sure the strawberries have just the right amount of water to drink.

spring strawberry

Come back soon, O – having sole responsibility for these babies is terrifying me!

strawberry and flower

Although it will be a while before our strawberries are ripe and juicy-red, this time of year brings an abundant supply of strikingly rosy forced and blanched rhubarb. Not a fruit as such, it still bridges the period between autumnal apples and sweet summer berries when it comes to puddings and desserts. It may not be truly seasonal, but the warm, dark conditions in which forced rhubarb is grown produce a stem that is more tender and less stringy than the outdoor variety of later months. And the rhubarb is also an almost disconcertingly vivid pink.

rhubarb

I have fond memories of rhubarb from my childhood in the North-East of England. There are photos of my sister and me hiding under our gigantic umbrellas of rhubarb leaves whilst playing in our parents’ garden (I must note here that the leaves are toxic if consumed due to overconcentration of oxalic acid – fortunately, we never felt in the remotest way inclined to munch on a rhubarb leaf when we were little). I do remember biting into the raw stem however, dipping it into a bowl of sugar to take away the tartness of its taste. It might have been relatively unfashionable until recently in the South of England, but I wouldn’t mind betting that rhubarb never lost its popularity during those years in the allotments and gardens of the North.

So when I encountered this season’s first homegrown rhubarb yesterday at Dart’s Farm, I just couldn’t resist buying a bunch. One thing led to another … the children wanted to bake cookies, they clamoured for gingersnaps, ginger is a classic flavouring for rhubarb …

Our rhubarb pudding was inspired by a recipe from Wicked Desserts (Delicious) for simple roasted rhubarb and lemon curd pots. We made our own gingersnaps for the topping and poached rather than roasted the rhubarb pieces.

rhubarb poaching

Although orange and rhubarb are a match made in heaven, I prefer the sublime combination of rhubarb, pomegranate juice and rosewater. Divine. So that’s what I used.

rhubarb lemon mascarpone

Rhubarb and Lemon Curd Pots

7 oz caster sugar
200 ml pomegranate juice
200 ml water
3 tbsp rosewater
1 lb forced rhubarb, cut diagonally into thin slices
1/2 oz butter
6 tbsps lemon curd
250g tub of mascarpone
4 gingersnaps (recipe here)

Place the sugar, pomegranate juice, water and rosewater in a large pan and bring to the boil. Add the rhubarb and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes to reduce. Stir in the butter. Leave to cool.

Swirl the lemon curd into the mascarpone with a knife.

Divide the poached rhubarb between 6 serving pots. Spoon the lemony mascarpone on top.

Crush the gingersnap biscuits and sprinkle the crumbs over the mascarpone.

This post is my entry to CLICK: Spring/Autumn.

Jesmona Black Bullets

Last weekend, I flew with T up to Newcastle to visit my parents and my Nan. O stayed behind in Devon with the girls. I think he probably drew the short straw in the whole arrangements as he was faced with the daunting prospect of … putting L’s hair into a bun for her ballet class on Saturday morning!

One of our favourite specialities of the North-East is Jesmona Black Bullets. When I was little, I just assumed that everyone knew about ‘Jesmona Blacks’. Small, hard, minty boiled sweets, they were a regular Christmastime gift in our family. It therefore came as a great surprise to me when I discovered that not only had my husband never come across them before, but also the entire population of the South of England was seemingly oblivious to these distinctive black and white tins of minty balls.

bullets in tin

Since we were down to our last ‘Jesdomona’ (as L calls them), and since I bought a replacement tin during my all-too-brief trip up North at the weekend, I am hereby seeking to introduce Jesmona Blacks to a wider audience across the North-South divide.

jesmona black bullets

And if anyone needs further convincing, then I must note that the tin has a multitude of uses besides being a smart storage container for the bullets. My skills in turning out cakes from loose-bottomed cake pans were greatly improved when I first thought to use a tall tin of Jesmona Black Bullets as a stand for the cake, allowing the sides of the hot pan to fall away from the loose bottom and down to the worktop. All things considered, I would certainly include a tin of Jesmona Blacks among my list of essential cake-making equipment!

jesmona blacks

Italian-style Chicken Casserole

A few days after I posted a round-up of recipes that had been submitted to my Let Them Eat Chicken food-blogging event in July last year, I received an email from my sister. Admittedly a little late, she sent me her own chicken recipe in the hope that I would add it to my collection. I promised to do so … I really, truly meant to do so … it’s just that I’m a little late, too!

To make up for my negligence, I decided that the honourable thing to do would be to make my sister’s recipe for dinner one evening on my new range cooker. Perhaps she would think I’d been waiting all this time until our kitchen was finished so I could showcase her recipe in appropriate splendour …

Hmm, maybe not. My sister knows me too well 😉 . Sorry, Lucy – I just forgot. Can you forgive me?

I have to say, it’s my own loss for having overlooked my sister’s recipe before now. O and I enjoyed a scrumptious chicken dinner a couple of evenings ago – a sort of coq au vin with an Italian twist. We ate ours with a pile of creamy mashed potato, although Lucy says it’s also good served with basmati rice.

You may remember that my sister once presented me with some cheese from Neal’s Yard Dairy in Borough Market? Well, when she has time, she likes to buy her chicken from a no less prestigious source nearby – Wyndham House Poultry (how I envy my sister’s shopping habits!). She says she discovered these butchers in a lovely book called Food Lovers’ London (she often refers to this book in her emails to me – I’ve got my fingers crossed that she might take me on a tour around its pages one day 😉 ).

Living slightly too far away from Borough Market for a quick shopping dash in between the school runs, I chose to use thighs from Devonshire Red chickens that I bought in my local Sainsbury’s.

devonshire red

The Devonshire Red is a slow-growing breed reared free from the worst practices of intensive farming. The chickens’ higher welfare standards are assured by the RSPCA’s Freedom Food accreditation.

So, here it is – my sister’s chicken casserole … ta daaaaa!

chicken casserole

Italian-style Chicken Casserole

Serves 4

1kg free range chicken thighs and drumsticks
1 red onion, sliced
250ml red wine
1 tin of tomatoes
1 tsp smoked paprika
1 x 410g can cannellini beans, drained
1 x 450g jar roasted red peppers, drained and sliced (note: I roasted some red peppers myself to save a bit of money here)
2 sprigs rosemary, chopped

Preheat the oven to 180 degrees C/ fan 160 degrees C. In a large oven proof casserole dish, sear the chicken for 5 to 6 minutes until brown. Transfer to a plate.

Add the onions to the casserole dish and cook for 3 to 4 minutes stirring until softened. Pour over the red wine and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes to thicken.

Add the paprika, tomatoes, beans, peppers and rosemary. Put the chicken back in to the casserole dish too. Bring to the boil and cover.

Cook in the oven for 30 minutes until the chicken is tender and the juices run clear.

Toffee Pears

Remember, remember the 5th of November … it’s Bonfire Night, so hands up who thinks I’m making a quirky variation on toffee apples to munch along with your jacket potatoes and ginger parkin?

(Actually, that’s not such a bad idea … but), No! Unfortunately, my toffee pears started life as a recipe for pear jam. Needless to say, I’m not such a good jam-maker. When it comes to pears though, neither is my husband (which is my only slight consolation at the moment!).

Our fruitless hunt for the elusive pear jam started just over six years ago when we took a ‘last-chance-on-our-own’ holiday about two months before the birth of our first daughter. We travelled around Normandy in France, stopping for our final night in a beautiful old farmhouse near Barfleur. At breakfast, we were served a quite exquisite, homemade confiture de poire. I remember venturing into the kitchen to thank our host for providing such a delicious speciality, only to be shooed out with a wave of a tea-towel and a scolding for allowing ‘les mouches’ to buzz in through the open doorway!

My husband made the first attempt to reproduce this jam back home. Failing to reach anything resembling a setting point, it nevertheless made an excellent pear puree for our daughter. Several children later, I recently found a recipe for “une confiture qui me plaît bien” … a highly-recommended recipe for pear jam from France itself, the very place of our first encounter! I eagerly assembled a collection of Conference, Rocha, Comice and Williams pears and promised my husband a long-overdue re-acquaintance with the jam of his dreams.

To my chagrin, his doubts were confirmed. “Is it supposed to do this?” he asked, attempting to retrieve his spoon from the sticky caramel in the jam jars.

jamcaramel

Hmmm. Perhaps not.

But … but, but but … it really is quite tasty, in a toffee-pear sort of way!

So, I now have 3 jars of ‘toffee pears’ to use.

Any suggestions?!

jamjar

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