Water, Water Everywhere

My so-called ‘kate-flour‘ has miraculously transformed my entire experience of baking from The Cake Bible this last week. Witness my Golden Luxury Butter Cake, formerly known as a soggy, dense lump of play-dough.

Golden Luxury Butter Cake

However, it appeared that Dove’s Farm speciality pasta flour was key to this success … and also that some people were having difficulty sourcing this in their local supermarkets. Rose asked me if the microwaving/cornflour method might work for plain flour too. If so, this would make it virtually universally possible to create ‘kate-flour’ in place of ‘cake-flour’.

Unfortunately, my baking results yesterday didn’t suggest that plain flour would work. Substituting plain flour for pasta flour in the ‘kate-flour’ treatment hailed a return to sogginess. It was disappointing, but at least we knew …

Or did we …?

Thinking things through once again in the early hours of this morning (my 6 month old doesn’t yet ‘sleep through’), I remembered that the whole point of microwaving was to reduce the moisture content of the flour being treated to about 1% to 5%. This apparently makes the starch less impervious to water and allows it to gelatinize and swell. What if I had simply failed to reduce the moisture content of the plain flour sufficiently? If my plain flour had a higher starting moisture content than my pasta flour, wouldn’t it then require a longer treatment time in the microwave to reduce the moisture content to within the desired levels?

First thing this morning, I rushed out to buy some more McDougall’s plain flour. I weighed out 10 oz, spread this on a pyrex plate and blasted it on high in the microwave for 3 bouts of 2 minutes each, stirring the flour in between. I then substituted 2 tablespoons per cup of microwaved flour with 2 tablespoons of cornflour, and used this mix to bake yet another Sour Cream Yellow Butter Cake.

It worked!

Cakes made with plain flour

The soggy, dense lump I made yesterday with plain flour that had been microwaved for a total of only 3 minutes is on the right. The soft, melting creation I baked this morning with plain flour that had been microwaved for a total of 6 minutes is above, on the left.

More Questions of Flour

Following the success of my microwaved flour as a substitute for cake flour, I was prompted by comments from fellow bloggers into thinking further about cornflour mixes. As ellaella suggested, a common method for making cake flour at home is to remove 2 tablespoons of bleached, plain (all purpose) flour per cup and to replace these with 2 tablespoons of cornflour (cornstarch). Would this still work if the plain flour was unbleached, however? And how would cakes made with a mix of plain flour and cornflour compare with cakes baked from microwaved flour?

At about 5 o’clock this morning, I was struck by a further question. What would happen if I microwaved some flour first and then replaced 2 tablespoons per cup with 2 tablespoons of cornflour? Would the microwaving be enough to compensate for the lack of bleaching?

Well, there was only one way to find out. Back to the kitchen I went.

It just so happens that yesterday I made Rose’s Favorite Yellow Layer Cake using microwaved pasta flour in place of cake flour. It turned out beautifully. Could I really improve on this?

I decided to bake two more of these butter cakes today. For the first, I microwaved 7 oz + a couple of spoonfuls of Doves Farm Organic speciality pasta flour for a total of 3 minutes on high (I have an ancient set of shop scales standing in my kitchen, so I tend to think and work in Imperial measurements). At this point, the whole experiment very nearly ended in disaster. I suddenly thought it would be easier to make up the cornflour mix if I had more microwaved flour on hand … so I popped a few more spoonfuls on a plate of their own into the microwave … and proceeded to burn the flour and melt a large hole in the bottom of the plastic plate. I guess microwaving such small amounts of flour isn’t such a good idea – be warned!

Luckily, my kitchen was still relatively unburnt (despite the smell) andI had just sufficient microwaved flour to be able to prepare a cornflour mix nevertheless. I then used 7 oz of this microwaved-cornflour-mixed flour (which seemed a bit of a mouthful, so I was coming to regard this as ‘kate flour’ instead) to make my first cake.

The flour mix for the second cake was more straightforward. I simply weighed the pasta flour straight from the bag and replaced 2 tablespoons per cup (spooned, 4.25 oz) with 2 tablespoons of cornflour.

What happened? Well, just when things were looking good, they suddenly started looking even better! The cake made with ‘kate flour’ rose beautifully and behaved exactly as Rose said it would in The Cake Bible. The cake made with pasta flour+cornflour didn’t rise quite so high and then retired to below the rim on cooling.

Cakes from the side

Inside, the ‘kate-flour’ cake (behind, on the right) had a finer texture and was lighter than either the pasta flour+cornflour (front) or all-microwaved-flour (behind, on the left) cakes.

Side view of cakes

More importantly, the ‘kate-flour’ cake definitely got my vote for taste. The pasta flour+cornflour cake was simply stodgy and … well … floury. The ‘kate-flour’ cake, on the other hand, was moister than the all-microwaved-flour cake and had even more of a melting, soft feel in the mouth. Each bite brought a delicate flavour of vanilla and left behind a subtle, lingering tang.

Perhaps with these new results, I might feel brave enough one day to use my ‘kate flour’ to bake another Golden Luxury Butter Cake … but that will be a story for another day.

A Question of Flour

“Because it provides the fundamental functionality in a baked product, flour has the ability to either make or break a product.”

So writes Scott Heganbart in an article for Food Product Design. I have recently had a startling glimpse into the full significance of this deceptively simple statement.

Ever since my discovery of The Cake Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum, I have been intrigued by this thing called ‘cake flour’. Until then, I had always assumed that flour was divided between plain (or all purpose) and self-raising, with a more macho variety of plain for breadmaking. But here was someone who had devoted a huge amount of time and energy ensuring that bakers in the UK could achieve the same results as those in the US using only the ingredients that were available to them … which didn’t include cake flour.

What then is cake flour? Beranbaum gives a detailed description of this ingredient in a section entitled ‘Understanding Butter Cakes’. From this, I learned that cake flour is low in protein because it is milled from soft winter wheat. It is also less acidic and able to absorb more water than other flours because it has a finer granulation and is bleached by chlorination. Apparently, the whole success of Beranbaum’s recipes for butter cakes relies on the structural advantages made possible by these properties of cake flour.

At first, I filed these differences away as a quirky curiosity and launched into following the UK-specific recipes. However, it soon became apparent to me that whilst tasting delicious, the butter cakes I was producing were not matching their descriptions. And then, one day, there was the disaster of the Golden Luxury Butter Cake. A velvety grain?? More like a soggy, dense lump of play-dough. Even the ducks were disdainful as they watched it sinking to the bottom of the pond.

What was going wrong? I decided to take a second look at this question of flour.

Back in 1992 when the UK edition of The Cake Bible was first published, self-raising flour in the UK was bleached. It was this bleaching process that allowed Beranbaum to create her solution of mixing plain and self-raising flour in recipes for butter cakes. Now, here comes the important part … I discovered that self-raising flour in the UK is no longer bleached. In fact, the Flour Advisory Bureau states that the process was not permitted after 1997. In other words, the work-arounds developed by Beranbaum have had the carpet swept from under their feet!

I’m not known for giving up easily. I wondered about the possibilities of obtaining cake flour from the US. However, there are now regulations about this that I suspect were not in place when Beranbaum suggested importing American ‘Softasilk’ cake flour as a possible solution to the problem in 1992. As reported in this United States Patent:

“Notwithstanding the acceptance in the United States of chlorinated cake flour, chemical treatments and chemical additives to foods have become suspect and it is desirable to avoid such treatments and additives wherever possible. In addition, most foreign countries prohibit the use of chlorinated cake flour in their cake products. As a result, these countries do not allow importation of American dry mix products such as cake mixes and the like which contain chlorinated flour.”

Sherlock Holmes taught, once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth. Well, the only remaining course of action seemed to be to create my own alternative form of cake flour using processes and products available in the UK! I really wasn’t expecting to find any success along this route. After all, I have a flawed and very incomplete awareness of cake theory, little understanding of biochemistry or molecular science, and a kitchen full of children and their paintings rather than scientists and their laboratory equipment. Foolishly undaunted, I set out nevertheless to discover my own cake flour.

I needed something finely milled and low in protein. I found this in the Italian 00 grade flour that is widely available in UK supermarkets. At 9.9g of protein per 100g of flour, Doves Farm Organic speciality pasta flour was the most suitable that I could find (contrary to its claim to be high in protein, this flour is not only more finely milled but also has a lower protein content per 100g than all other brands of plain flour that I could find on the supermarket shelves).

Now I needed to apply an alternative treatment to chlorination that would yield similar results. After further research I came across a proposed method for the microwave treatment of unchlorinated cake flour:

“Microwave treatment of unchlorinated cake flour restores the ability of starch to gelatinize and swell … the swollen, gelatinized starch granules provide the honeycomb open-celled structure of the finished cake, which stabilizes it against collapse upon cooling. Starch gelatinization also contributes to crumb tenderness, slightly dry texture and development of fine-grained cells.”

It seemed too good to be true. Would this work in my own kitchen? Apparently, best results were obtained using flour with a protein content between 4% and 9%. My pasta flour was slightly above this at nearly 10%. Also, it appeared to be very important to use undehydrated flour so it has sufficient moisture to be able to interact with the microwave field and so reduce the moisture content to less than about 6%. My pasta flour? I really didn’t have a clue about its moisture content or whether it was already dehydrated or not. I could only cross my fingers!

Taking an enormous leap of faith, I set to work in the kitchen. I decided to bake two versions of Beranbaum’s Perfect All-American Chocolate Butter Cake. In the first, I followed the original US recipe and replaced the cake flour with my own microwaved flour. In the second, I followed the UK recipe and used McDougall’s Supreme Sponge flour. This is a self-raising flour milled specifically from soft wheats. The packaging claims that it can absorb more moisture and sugar than standard flour and will produce a very light, soft texture.

To make my own cake flour for the first version, I carefully weighed out 235g of pasta flour. I spread this on a plate to give a bed depth of 2cms and blasted it on high in the microwave for 1.5 minutes (half of my total alloted time of 3 mins). When I opened the door, a great amount of steam escaped from the microwave and the flour had started to clump together. I fluffed it up a bit with a fork and put it back in for its second blast. It then occurred to me that, with all this moisture evaporating, the finished flour might not weigh 235g anymore … so in my best scientific practice, I quickly spooned on a couple of extra tablespoons of flour and blasted this mix for the remaining 1.5 minutes! I now had a reserve of ‘cake flour’ that I could weigh out and sieve.

The results?

Despite having carefully researched and concocted my own version of cake flour, I had remarkably little faith that I could produce anything remotely edible with it. I certainly wasn’t anticipating the startling effect that my flour had made when the two cakes were out of the oven.

Cake Tops

The cake layers (on the left and centre) made with the UK self-raising flour were good illustrations of what had happened so far every time I tried a butter cake recipe from The Cake Bible. They were bubbled on the top and dense inside. The cake layers made with my microwaved flour (cooled and stacked on the right) were beautiful! Smooth tops with a wonderfully light, fine texture inside. I was so excited!

Here are closer views of the layers:

UK-specific recipe with self-raising flour …

First close view of UK cake

and …

Second close view of UK cake

US recipe with microwaved flour

Close view of US cake

Not only did my microwaved flour have a dramatic effect on appearance, but it also had a comparable effect on the taste of the cake. The UK/self-raising flour version was quite delicious but also heavily moist and buttery. The US/microwaved flour version was quite another story – light, chocolatey, soft and exceptionally exquisite.

I can’t provide tasting samples online, but the difference is clear in this photo. The UK/self-raising flour cake is on the left in the foreground; the US/microwaved flour cake is behind.

Inside the cakes

The next day, the UK/self-raising flour cake seemed to have a buttery strip running through the centre of each layer whilst the US/microwaved flour version had retained its lightness. If anything, the US/microwaved flour cake had become even more meltingly chocolatey.

I can only say, “Mmmmmmm” as I now have something to think further about … and some delicious chocolate cake to eat as well!

Gradus ad Parnassum with Rose Levy Beranbaum

My earliest experiences of baking were guided by my Mum and her well-used copy of the Be-Ro Flour Home Recipe book. When I left home to study music at University, I received my own copy of the Be-Ro book. It was duly filed away until one day several years later when I decided it might be fun to make a birthday cake for my husband.

It would be nice to be able to say that this was a turning point and that I became an avid baker after the birthday cake. Unfortunately, this was not to be. I used the only cake tin I could find in our house. It was a huge, deep affair and the cake I made in it struggled to rise to even a finger-width. Undaunted, I simply repeated the process and sandwiched my two flat discs together with strawberry jam. My husband was very polite and I didn’t attempt any more cake-making until my elder daughter’s first birthday nearly four years later.

Children have a way of changing your life completely. I bought 50 Easy Party Cakes by Debbie Brown and for the next three years, I made exactly one cake each year. I then doubled my output and made exactly two cakes in the year following the birth of my second daughter.

The recipes for the cakes themselves were secondary to their appearance. Indeed, Debbie Brown advised making a firm cake that was able to stand up to modeling, so I followed her instructions meticulously and never regarded the actual baking-part of the endeavour as anything particularly troublesome. I was more worried about whether the bits were going to stick together or whether the icing would drop off when I moved the cake.

Birthday Cakes

As my children grew, I discovered I held a conviction that they should be introduced to the joys of baking. I still wasn’t very clear at this point what the actual ‘joys’ were, but I believed we should set out to find them nonetheless. Somewhere between the fairy cakes and iced biscuits, I began to realize there was a vast landscape of uncharted territory lying before us. Why was it a Bad Thing if the mixture curdled? What was the reasoning behind the seemingly endless permutations of baking powder and bicarbonate of soda? Why on earth were we told to hang some cakes upside-down to cool? Surely someone somewhere was having a laugh!

Then Rose Levy Beranbaum stepped into my life. Or, to be more precise, I came across her book, The Cake Bible in a second-hand shop in Kirkcudbright. At last, I had found a map for that mysterious realm of cake-making. Moreover, this particular map had been written especially for me! (or rather, for me and the rest of the UK population, since the copy I was holding was the 1992 British Edition of the Bible).

As Rose herself explained in an interview:

“When I started to cook and bake I was very frustrated by unexplained instructions and dictates. When I chose to ignore some I discovered why I shouldn’t have; with others, I saw that there was no reason to have followed them. I wanted to empower the reader to make his or her own choices if they so desired. This can be done effectively only when one understands the reasoning behind the technique. Of course the recipe will work just fine as it is but some people like to make variations and when it comes to baking, you really need to know what you’re doing when you make changes.”

Not only does Rose finally illuminate the mysterious behaviours of flour, sugar, butter and eggs, but she also provides a foolproof method for the production of the most heavenly cakes you have ever tasted. With The Cake Bible by my side, I have successfully brought forth no less than five delicious creations from my oven in the last week alone. And I haven’t even ventured into the icings and fillings sections of the book yet!

White Spice Pound Cake

Needless to say, my family and friends are also full of gratitude to Rose Levy Beranbaum. Perhaps now, when my children look back on their own steps to Parnassus, they will remember that their earliest experiences of baking were guided by their Mum and her well-used copy of The Cake Bible.

White Velvet Butter Cake

Brownies in Budleigh

It seems to be high summer for the moment here in Devon. Yesterday, I walked with the children along the seafront at Budleigh Salterton, stopping for an ice-cream and a brief visit to a charity shop. There, on the shelves among the usual collection of weight-loss and “how to” guides, I found an old copy of The Art of Fine Baking by Paula Peck. Originally published in 1961, this copy (soon to become ‘my’ edition) dates from 1966. I have to confess that I’d never heard of Paula Peck before then – I was simply attracted by the book’s wide range of recipes for all kinds of cakes, pastries, cookies, breads, frostings and petits fours secs … including a recipe for Chocolate Brownies.

An article by Mark Bittman in the NY Times extols the virtues of this recipe for “a true and beautiful brownie”. On the subject of Paula Peck herself however, I can find surprisingly little.

Others before me have struggled to find out about Paula Peck. Cookie Jill describes her search for information after finding her copy of the book at a local library sale. She at least appears to have had the advantage of a book flap, where James Beard has written:

“Her enthusiam for the work table and range is refreshing. Her way to combat fatigue and worry is to get into the kitchen and turn out a hundred or so croissants or two or three batches of puff paste with all embellisments. She is an outstanding juggler with rolling pin and mixing bowl, and the magic results fill her larder and freezer to overflowing. Her home is an oasis for hungry traveleers and guests, for there is always enough delectable food in her kitchen to serve a good-sized party.”

I certainly like Paula Peck’s philosophy!

Helen McLoughlin, a contemporary and apparent neighbour, confirms James Beard’s glowing recommendation in an endnote to My Nameday: Come for Dessert, a curious book written in 1962 on the celebration of namedays:

“This recipe is from our favorite cookbook, “The Art of Fine Baking (pub. by Simon and Schuster) by Paula Peck, who has contributed recipes to, and has had her pastries photographed for “The New York Times” and “Life,” and has taught at the James Beard Cooking School. Her kitchen next door fills us with joy at the whiff of the delicious aroma of freshly baked bread, and makes us nostalgic for the magic days of childhood when mother or grandmother made wonderful cake at home.”

Now I’m expecting great things from Peck’s brownie recipe. It must come close to being an original …

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