White Christmas Cookies

This post started out nearly three months ago as an exposition on sugar.

Photograph: D Morrison/Express/Getty Images

More specifically, I planned to write about the new Fairtrade sugars of Tate & Lyle and the 6000 small-scale sugar cane growers in Belize who have benefited from this conversion of the sugar giant’s retail range. I wanted to tell you how the farmers now receive a Fairtrade Premium in the region of US$60 per tonne for their crop as a result of the certification. This really has significant effects on investment in environmental and economic changes. Raynaldo Aban, a sugar cane farmer from San Joaquin village in Corazal, Belize, described how crucial this premium is to his community:

“The income that we will get will help us in many projects, such as infrastructure, and community development. I would like to tell the people from Great Britain that Belize has a good quality of sugar, and that farmers in Belize will benefit a lot from being certified as Fairtrade.”

I should mention that, whilst I had noticed the Fairtrade logo on bags of Tate & Lyle sugar more than three months ago and had already mentally added them to the list of brands I will put in my shopping trolley, I hadn’t planned to post about this switch until I received an email from the agency representing Tate & Lyle. The cynical among you might now be thinking, “Aha – I thought you said you didn’t do advertising on your blog.” Well, no. I actually said that I rarely find anything to inspire me in the sort of generic, ‘write-about-this-and-we’ll-send-you-loads-of-freebies’ emails that seem to do the rounds in the food blogging world. I’m more than happy to receive suggestions that attune with my own passions and views however, and I welcomed an opportunity to delve further into the background behind Tate & Lyle’s conversion to Fairtrade.

I have to confess that I find Tate & Lyle’s new Fairtrade website more interesting than their Facebook page, We Love Baking, but that’s probably because I still don’t really ‘get’ Facebook. With three children, I struggle to find time even to check my email once a day, so I’m an unlikely candidate for becoming part of an active online community anymore. But that’s not Facebook’s fault, and the Tate & Lyle baking group certainly appears to be motivated and encouraging.

So why has it taken me so long to get around to writing this post? Well, as I just said, I’m slightly tied up in the taxi-driving madness of motherhood these days, so any job that doesn’t directly involve placating screaming children tends to be relegated to the bottom of the to-do list. But Tate & Lyle very kindly sent me a package of their Fairtrade sugar samples in a follow-up to their original email, so surely I could have kicked my ass into gear before now? Okay, okay, I know – but you see, the problem wasn’t solely a time-issue thing. I couldn’t decide exactly which recipe I most wanted to write about.

First of all, there was the best chocolate chip cookie recipe ever. The one that used Tate & Lyle’s Fairtrade granulated sugar.

Then there was the one for the white chocolate and cardamom cookies we made for the children’s ballet teacher at the end of term. Drizzled with melted white chocolate, the rich cardamom mingled with the perfumes of vanilla to create almost lemony overtones. Besides, I also wanted to tell you about the ballet school’s show and urge anyone within distance to hurry to the Manor Pavillion in Sidmouth on January 15th/16th next year to see The Lost Girl and other ballets.

Then the snow fell, fairy lights twinkled in the trees and we found ourselves racing headlong towards a breathtakingly beautiful white Christmas. We mixed together the seasonal colours and created orange-spiced cookies bursting with pistachios, cranberries and white chocolate chips for our neighbours.

It might have been three months in the making, but I would finally like to conclude my overdue exposition on sugar with perhaps the best gift of all (depending on your aversion or otherwise to cookies) – the recipe for the best-ever chocolate chip cookie with variations for white chocolate cardamom and seasonal colour varieties.

Enjoy – and Happy Holidays 🙂

Best Ever Chocolate Chip Cookies (by me and according to my children)

7 3/4 oz butter, softened
5 1/2 oz Fairtrade granulated sugar
6 oz Fairtrade light brown muscovado sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 large eggs (3 1/2 oz without shells)
12 3/4 oz strong white (bread) flour
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp salt
12 oz plain/milk chocolate chips

Preheat the oven to 190 degrees C.

Cream the butter and sugar in a large bowl.

Lightly beat the eggs together with the vanilla and add gradually to the creamed mixture.

Mix together the dry ingredients, then stir into the dough until just combined.

Stir in the chocolate chips.

Drop large tablespoonfuls of the dough onto ungreased baking trays, leaving plenty of room for the cookies to expand during baking. Bake for 8-10 minutes in the pre-heated oven (9 minutes in my oven gives the best results for a crunchy-on-the-outside/soft-in-the-middle texture).

Remove the cookies carefully with a spatula and cool on wire racks.

Makes c. 30 cookies.

White chocolate and cardamom variation: replace the plain/milk chocolate chips with white chocolate chips or chunks and add the ground seeds from 3 cardamom pods to the dry ingredients.

Seasonal colours variation: replace the plain/milk chocolate chips with 6 oz white chocolate chips or chunks and also stir in 4 oz dried cranberries, 4 oz chopped pistachios and the grated zest of 1 orange.

A Finger of Fudge

I’m a bit of a Last-Minute-Kate. Whether for university essays, exam revision or just plain old form-filling, I’ve always had a tendency towards procrastination and prevarication in the face of deadlines. So the fact that I’m posting my entry three whole days before the deadline for Sugar High Friday #61 is something of a miracle! Please remember this and think kindly of me when I revert to type afterwards 😉

When I chose the theme for this month’s SHF, my thoughts turned immediately to my Mum’s  orange trifle. Sweet and comforting, I’ve been known to make single portions for both myself and L when the evenings are long and dark and the rain is falling outside. However, as you can see, I’ve already written about this wonderful pudding at length for a previous SHF when the theme was Childhood Delights. Although I believe it’s impossible to overpraise my Mum’s trifle, perhaps submitting the same thing to two separate SHF events might have been overdoing it slightly …

And yet it’s remarkable how often a search for comfort leads to a trip down memory lane.

Way, way back in 1979, I was five years old and the proud owner of a two-wheeler Raleigh bicycle.

You can’t really see the bike in this photo, so you’ll have to believe me when I tell you that it was very shiny and very, very purple. I had also just succeeded in riding it without stabilizers when the photo was taken, which is why I’m looking very happy if somewhat chilly.

It was a few months after this photo when I set out with my Mum and my baby sister to take our dog for a walk. Naturally, I was full of beans and was allowed to ride my bike while my Mum pushed my sister in her big, heavy pram (yes, that’s my Dad in the photo and not my Mum, but you get the picture – just remember specifically that this pram was very big and very, very heavy).

After safely negotiating the one main road that ran down the length of our housing estate, we came to a network of footpaths that were a safe haven for wobbly five-year-old bike riders. I knew that our own circular route back home would lead eventually to an incredibly steep and long hill (by my five-year-old standards, anyway).

“I bet you can’t ride to the top of the hill without stopping,” my Mum challenged me.

“Bet you I can!” I countered as I pedalled furiously ahead, my chin set determinedly.

At the foot of the hill, the path curved around to begin its ascent. Suddenly, as I turned, my wheels slipped in some gravel and my bike careered sideways, tipping me to the ground. I slid a few yards through the gravel and fell awkwardly on my left arm.

Mum, dog and pram soon arrived at the scene of the disaster. My bike’s handlebars were twisted, my left arm hurt furiously and the shortest way home was up that hill. It wasn’t looking too good until Mum bribed me with the promise of a packet of sweets from the VG shop at the top. I gritted my teeth after that and somehow my Mum and I managed to push/carry/drag the heavy pram, the bent bike and the bemused dog all the way up the slope. I still have flashbulb memories of the struggle!

My Mum kept her word and bought a Cadbury’s Finger of Fudge for me as a reward for my bravery. It was just the sweet, sugary treat that I needed at that moment. Its soothing mix of melting chocolate and smooth, creamy fudginess successfully transported me away from the dull, throbbing pain in my left arm. Even today, the familiar jingle of the 1980s advert is enough to carry me back to that very day when I was comforted by a finger of fudge (and my Mum’s cuddles, of course … but the fudge does feature prominently in my memory!).

(Incidentally, did you notice the similarity between the Cadbury’s Fudge jingle and the Lincolnshire Poacher?)

A visit to the hospital later, it turned out that my arm had been broken in the fall. So, just to complete the story, here’s a picture of me looking quite enigmatic with a pot on my arm. I’m not sure what the grey shadow on the right is … the ghost of Christmas past, perhaps?

Although I can easily walk down into our village today and buy a finger of fudge in the local shop, I wanted to try to recreate this sweet comfort treat for myself at home. After all, I may need the recipe distressingly soon if even the very taste of this iconic chocolate bar becomes little more than a distant memory in a Kraft takeover of Cadbury

A Finger of Fudge (basic fudge recipe adapted from Simple Sweet-Making)

1 lb granulated sugar
1/4 pint milk
2 oz butter
1 tsp liquid glucose
1 tsp vanilla extract

Dissolve the sugar in the milk in a 4-5 pint saucepan. (This is the part I find the most difficult – it sounds so simple, but it always takes me forever to achieve (or not, as my many failures testify). This time, I used my fingers to stir the sugar, which seemed to help. I also transferred it several times into a clean pan when the sides seemed to be getting gummed up with sugar crystals – I probably lost a bit of the solution in the process, but I kept going regardless. And this is the best fudge I’ve ever made, so I couldn’t have done too much wrong … However you achieve it, just make sure that there are absolutely no sugar crystals left in the solution before you reach anywhere near boiling point).

Add the remaining ingredients and stir to incorporate.

Attach a candy thermometer to the side of the pan (the mixture didn’t reach up to the immersion point on mine at the start, but once again I carried on regardless – all turned out well when the mixture bubbled ferociously up the sides of the pan) and boil to 238 degrees F (soft ball stage). Stir the mixture from time to time as its temperature rises to prevent it from burning, but stop stirring as it reaches the soft ball stage.

Carefully stand the pan in a roasting dish filled with ice water to stop any further rise of temperature. Be careful not to knock the pan or stir the mixture at all. Leave it for 10 minutes or until the fudge has cooled to about 110 degrees F.

Here, the instructions say to beat until thick then turn out onto a board and knead until smooth. (In my own doubtlessly flawed attempt, I found the fudgy caramel thing to be far too sticky to beat, so I scraped it onto the work surface and pulled it about a bit with a bench scraper. I then gave up in frustration and left home to collect L and M from school. When I returned, I was astonished to find that the sloppy goo had actually started to set in a fudge-like manner in the centre of the flattened shape in which I had discarded it.)

Form into logs about an 1 1/2 inches long. (Think Play-Doh.)


Dip into melted chocolate and place on trays lined with baking parchment until dry.

When dry, break off the drippy bits of chocolate and give to small children in need of comfort.

Chocolate Brownie Puddle Cake

I really wasn’t sure what to call this. To my mind, the base is more of a chocolate truffle or mousse than a brownie, but Matt Tebbutt calls it a brownie, so who am I to object? It is his recipe, after all.

brownie puddle

Let me back-track slightly. The idea for this ‘puddle cake’ started to grow when I came across both Matt’s recipe for Espresso and Walnut Brownies and Emily’s recipe for Chocolate-Peanut Butter Marble Cake on the same day last week (I actually found Matt’s brownie recipe whilst browsing cookbooks in the supermarket – it’s in his book, Cooks Country, and is very slightly different from the version I found online). The brownies were introduced as ‘one of the most popular puds on the menu at the restaurant’, whilst in Emily’s recipe I discovered what she describes as ‘the most delicious chocolate frosting in in the world’.

Knowing that we were soon to be visited by chocolate-pudding-loving friends from Bournemouth, I was keen to take advantage of their tastebuds by trying out my germinating idea on them …

To put it simply, I was wondering, “Why not bake these brownies in a springform pan and fill the part where it dipped in the middle with Emily’s frosting?” Okay, it’s hardly the thought of a genius, but this idea of mine just wouldn’t go away. As the weekend approached, I even began to dream of chocolate puddles and molten brownies.

I very nearly missed my opportunity. Even on the Monday morning when O had taken the children out of the house to give me a chance to get things ready, I still wasn’t sure that I would really go ahead and make the cake. This was partly because I was supposed to be making gingersnaps to go with the lemon-meringue ice-cream and poached rhubarb we were having for dessert in the evening, but also because I knew my savoury-toothed husband would be less than pleased to return to the copious amounts of washing-up I knew this cake would generate!

Needless to say, the chocolate brownie puddle cake found a way of coming into existence once the gingersnaps were safely cooling. I don’t think there were even too many dirty pots left by the time O returned, but that may be my guilty conscience putting a glossy spin on the proceedings.

I was pleased that it did grind me down into subservience, though. As I wrote at the beginning of this post, it wasn’t really a brownie as such. But it was certainly chocolate heaven.

chocolate heaven

Chocolate Brownie Puddle Cake (adapted from a recipe by Matt Tebbett and filled with Emily’s most delicious chocolate frosting)

For the base:

300 g (10 1/2 oz) plain chocolate
150 g (5 1/4 oz) unsalted butter
150 g (5 1/4 oz) light brown muscovado sugar)
4 medium eggs
2 oz raisins soaked in hot coffee
150 g (5 1/4 oz) mascarpone cheese

Pre-heat the oven to 150 degrees C. Grease and baseline a 9″ round springform cake pan.

Melt the chocolate in a double boiler or microwave (I used to do it the first way, but it takes far less time in a microwave – you just need to be careful to stir it frequently and to take it out before all the chocolate has melted completely so the last lumps can melt in the residual heat).

Blend the butter and sugar in a food processor until they are fluffy and pale.

Add the eggs one at a time, whizzing to incorporate.

Drain the raisins and whizz them into the mixture.

Add the mascarpone cheese and whizz to combine.

Pour in the melted chocolate and give the whole thing a final quick whizz to fold everything together.

Scrape into the prepared cake pan and bake in the centre of the oven for 45 to 50 minutes. The centre will be dipped and look gooey, but will feel surprisingly firm and springy when you press it gently.

Leave to cool in the pan on a wire rack (don’t be tempted to speed up the cooling by putting it in the fridge – the texture will change from meltingly smooth to densely fudgy).

To assemble:

When the base has cooled to room temperature, remove the sides of the pan and fill the centre of the cake with a half-quantity of Emily’s most delicious chocolate frosting (or make the full amount of frosting and save the leftovers for something else). Decorate with grated chocolate.

Any leftovers can be kept in the fridge for a couple of days, although the texture will be different (and very delicious too, but in a fudgier way).

Easter White Chocolate Nests

I know, I know, Easter was last weekend and I missed it with these Easter nests. But it’s a season for springtime festivals after the darkness and hibernation of the winter months, so perhaps I’m not too late after all. My children certainly don’t seem to mind that we made Easter goodies after the event! Time is more flexible when you’re as young as they are, I guess.

So yes, the Easter bunny hopped by our house earlier today and caught us in the act of creating sticky, gooey nests for the chocolate eggs he laid on Sunday.

Funnily enough, it seems that people did once believe that bunnies were laying eggs at this time of the year. The story goes that they would mistakenly connect their lucky discoveries of clutches of eggs hidden among the hedgerows with the mad March hares they saw bouncing around in the fields. In reality, the hidden treasure had actually been laid by the unconfined hens of those days as they roamed freely in the meadows. It’s a shame such child-like logic had to be disillusioned, in some ways – I rather like the picture of frantically fertile bunnies stopping every now and then in their frenzied hopping to deposit a few eggs in unexpected places.

Although we were too late for Easter, I’m hoping that we’ll still be in time to offer our nests to Julia of A Slice of Cherry Pie for her Easter Cake Bake 2009. I’m a little hazy about days and dates right now (a side-effect of school holidays, I find), but I’m pretty sure we haven’t yet had the 20th April!

Easter nests

Easter White Chocolate Nests

10 oz rolled oats
4 oz Rice Krispies
4 oz milk chocolate chips
8 oz unsalted butter
7 oz golden syrup
6 oz white chocolate
1/2 tsp fleur de sel
60 mini chocolate eggs

Makes 30 nests.

Mix together the oats, Rice Krispies and chocolate chips in a large bowl.

Melt the butter, golden syrup and white chocolate together in a saucepan over a low heat. Stir in the fleur de sel, then pour the mixture over the dry ingredients in the big bowl.

Get several children to take turns stirring with a big wooden spoon until all the dry ingredients are moistened (it’s okay to do it yourself if you can’t find any little people to help, but it won’t taste as good).

Use an ice-cream scoop to dollop the sticky mess into paper cupcake liners. Press a couple of mini eggs into the top of each nest.

Leave to set if you can resist them for long enough.

Chocolate Pear Brownies

Children come with a reputation for being fussy eaters, so I knew even before the birth of my first daughter nearly seven years ago that the journey towards a sophisticated palette may be a long and frustrating one. For all three of my children, I lovingly prepared freshly-made fruit purées and a wide range of seasonal vegetables and meats, blended to exactly the right consistency and lumpiness for their developing eating skills. They experienced a true variety of culinary tastes so that, when they were ready to graduate from their highchairs, they would be able to take their places at the tables of fine dining establishments with pride and gustatory anticipation.

I didn’t expect to get motherhood 100% correct. I’m not even holding out for 50% really – the goalposts seem to keep moving! I would really, really like it though if I could persuade my two youngest children to eat a few more of the things that their older sister now devours with relish. I’d be ecstatically happy if I could even just persuade them to taste the teeniest, tiniest nibble of things that aren’t fish fingers or potato smiles.

“I don’t like that,” M says, pointing her finger and looking dubiously at a spoonful of bolognaise sauce that I had the effrontery to sneak onto her plate beside the pasta shells. T doesn’t even bother to look twice at his own dish and rejects his dinner with an imperious sweep of his little arm. At least L is happy – she now has triple helpings of one of her favourite meals.

The thing is, I know the theory, I’ve read the literature, I have a first-class honours degree in Psychology and several years’ experience in behaviour management techniques with young children before my own came along … and it all counts for nothing when my two youngest offspring flatly refuse to co-operate. Even the Food Dudes would struggle to rescue the recalcitrants in my household, I’m sure. The principle of taste exposure (that you learn to like new foods by tasting them more often) just doesn’t stand a chance of success if the child in question won’t actually taste the food in the first place. And whilst behaviour modelling may be key to the solution offered by the heroic superpowers, I can’t think of anyone who is more admired by M and T than their big sister … and they’ve so far failed to be swayed into any imitation of her eating habits.

All of which explains why I’m sitting here, cock-a-hoop because M has just tried a bit of boiled potato and realised that it tastes even better than potato smiles! Not only did she savour a tiny piece of potato however, she went back for more and then declared, “Yummy!”

If I didn’t think I’d lose your company, I’d post a picture of a potato. But I do understand that not everyone is looking at potatoes in such a new light this evening. So I thought I’d tell you about something else that I have absolutely no trouble at all in persuading any of my fussy eaters to munch, funnily enough – chocolate pear brownies.

chocolate pear brownie

It all started when L and M asked for pears at breakfast-time. Somewhere in between finding shoes and plaiting hair, the peeled and diced pears were forgotten, only to be found again when I returned home from the morning school drop-off. I rolled them in some lemon juice and stored them in the fridge while I wondered about what to do with them. Later that day, these chocolate pear brownies were born.

It’s probably best to cut them into fairly small squares – about 1 1/2″ square – as they are quite rich and gooey. But then again, my children seem to need to eat at least two of these in one go, so perhaps I could have offered larger slices, after all. Don’t expect them to rise too much – their appeal is in their dark, dense texture with flavours of sweet pear and chocolate fudge.

choc pear brownies

Chocolate Pear Brownies

4 oz butter
3 oz plain chocolate
5 1/2 oz caster sugar
4 1/2 oz light muscovado sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract
10 oz pear purée
3 1/2 oz milk
9 oz plain flour
2 oz cocoa powder
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
7 oz chocolate chips

Preheat the oven to 180 degrees C. Grease and base-line an 11″ x 15″ baking pan.

Melt together the butter and the plain chocolate. Transfer to a large mixing bowl.

Stir in the sugars and eggs. Beat to combine.

Beat in the vanilla, pear and milk.

Sift together, then stir in the dry ingredients. Mix until just combined.

Stir in the chocolate chips.

Bake in the centre of the oven for 25 minutes. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes before transferring to a wire rack.

Cut into squares and store in an airtight box (or eat greedily).

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